The 4C's are used throughout
the world to classify the rarity of diamonds. Diamonds with the combination
of the highest 4C ratings are more rare and consequently, more expensive.
Light is the element that ignites a diamond's brilliance and fire. Its
interplay with each of the 4C's will help explain why one diamond can
appear even more beautiful than another. The good news is that you don't
need to buy the rarest diamond to find one whose beauty speaks to you.
CUT
Cut is the only one of the
4C's that is influenced by humans. The rest are created as naturally
as diamonds from the earth. Cut refers to the angle and proportion a
skilled craftsman creates in transforming a rough diamond into a polished
diamond. Based on scientific formulas there are 3 types of diamonds:
Well Cut / Ideal Cut : A well
cut diamond will internally reflect light from one mirror like facet
to another and disperse and reflect it through the top of the stone.
This results in the display of brilliance and fire. Shallow Cut : Light
is lost out the bottom causing the diamond to lose brilliance. Deep
Cut : Light escapes out the sides causing the diamond to appear dark
and dull.
Diamond cutting requires great
skill and training. The cutter must polish tiny surfaces known as facets
onto the rough diamond. This process is what creates the crown, culet,
table, girdle, and pavilion of the diamond.
Cut also refers to the shape
of the diamond – round, marquise, pear, princess or heart for example.
COLOR
Diamonds range in color from
icy whites to warm summer whites. Diamonds are graded on a color scale
established by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), which ranges
from D (colorless) to Z.
Color differences are very
subtle and it is very difficult to see the difference between, say,
an E and a F. Therefore the colors are graded under controlled lighting
conditions and are compared to a master set for accuracy. Truly colorless
stones, graded D, treasured for their rarity are highest on the Diamond
Quality Pyramid
Diamonds are graded in the
following manner :
D E F
: Colorless Diamonds. The highest color grade and high quality diamonds,
which is extremely rare. An expert gemologist can only detect minute
traces of color.
G-H-I-J : Near colorless. Color noticeable when compared to diamonds
of better grades, but these grades offer excellent value.
K-L-M : Faint yellow colored diamonds.
N-O-P-Q-R : Very light yellow colored diamonds.
S-T-U-V-W-X-Y-Z-Z+ : Light yellow or yellow colored diamonds.
What color grade is best?
- For the purist,
look for a colorless diamond with a grade of D-F
and a fluorescence rating of faint, inert, none, or negligible.
- For an excellent
value in a diamond with no noticeable color to the unaided eye, look
for a near-colorless grade of G-I
, and a fluorescence grade of medium or strong blue.
- Or, if you'd rather
not compromise on color but would like to stay on budget, choose a diamond
with a good cut, SI1–SI2 clarity, and consider going with a strong
fluorescence. It will still be beautiful to the unaided eye and you
may prefer the unique effect of a strong fluorescence.
CARAT
Refers to the weight of a diamond.
The term carat is derived from
the word carob. Carob seeds are surprisingly similar in weight
to one another; therefore they were used in ancient civilization as
a tool to measure the weight of the diamond. One carob equaled 1-carat
weight. Carat is often confused with size even though it is actually
a measure of weight. One carat is equivalent to 200 milligrams. It can
also be divided into 100 “points”. A 0.75-carat weight diamond is
the same as a 75-points or ¾ carat diamond
A 1-carat diamond will cost
much more than twice as much as the cost of a ½ carat diamond, assuming
cut, clarity and color remain constant. Cut and mounting can make a
diamond appear larger (or smaller) than its actual weight.
CLARITY
Refers to the presence of inclusion
in a diamond.
When light enters a diamond
it is reflected in and refracted out. If there is anything disrupting
the flow of light in a diamond such as an inclusion, a proportion of
light will be lost. As a result, brilliance could be diminished. The
number of inclusions can determine the degree of brilliance lost.
Inclusions are sometimes referred
to as “nature's fingerprints”, and are not visible to a naked eye
unless magnified. Inclusions are ranked on a scale of perfection, known
as clarity, which was established by GIA. The clarity scale from F (Flawless)
to included (I), is based on the visibility on inclusions are a magnification
of 10x.
The position of inclusion affects
the value of a diamond. There are very few flawless diamonds found in
nature, thus these diamonds are much more valuable.
VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3
The number represents levels
within each grade. The 1s will be cleaner (have fewer or smaller inclusions)
than the 2s. This allows for more specific grading categories.
The position of diamond may
affect the value of the diamond. One many not notice a significant difference
between VS1 and VS2. However one should consider – number, size, brightness,
nature and position of inclusion.
Sometimes inclusions can be
hidden by a mounting, thus having little effect on the beauty of a diamond.
An inclusion in the middle or top of a diamond could impact the dispersion
of light, sometimes making the diamond less brilliant.
The greater a diamond's clarity,
the more brilliant, valuable and rare it is – and the higher it is
on the Diamond Grading Pyramid